USMC and Troops' Living Conditions (Food, Quarters, Amenities)

"Where do the Marines sleep? What type of rooms do they live in? Do they have to sleep outside on the ground? Do they have beds to sleep in? Do they have bathrooms and showers?" All these questions, and many more have been asked of me since I returned home from Iraq on 13 March from a 2+ week embed assignment in Fallujah and Ar Ramadi, Iraq.

I have posted some photographs to show everyone some of the quarters that John Wroblewski and I stayed in during our assignments in 2007 and 2008. Most of the photos (interior views, except the one of the 3 Marines) were taken at the JSS (Joint Security Station) on the east side of Ramadi. The photo of the three Marines was taken in our "container" trailer in Camp Fallujah (that was typical inside, except had additional amenities for journalists - the ONLY time I've seen this in my two visits to Iraq!)

Large military bases in Iraq (Baghdad International Airport, Green Zone in Baghdad, Fallujah, and Ar Ramadi) have mess halls whose hours vary based upon location and demand. Generally, they serve four meals daily from 0600 - 0800, 1100-1300, 1700-1900, and 2300 - 0100.) On some bases, the food selections were extensive and tasty. However, there were other locations that were difficult, if not impossible to reach, due to work schedules and the distances involved in getting to the mess hall. For instance, the mess hall at Camp Ramadi was exceptional in its choices and quality, but John and I had to walk about 20 minutes just to get there from our quarters! Also, the large bases in Kuwait have fast food outlets (KFC, Subway, Pizza Hut, and McDonald's.) Of these, I think that McDonald's is the only 24/7 operation (although this may have changed since my first visit in January 2007.)

When we were stationed at the JSS (Joint Security Station) in Ramadi, the Marines and Iraqi Police unit there were only given one hot meal per day, delivered in an insulated hotbox around 1700. Other choices were food contained within freezers that could be microwaved in the lone microwave oven, Pop Tarts, lunch meats and cheeses for sandwiches, and pre-packaged muffins and pastries stacked around the "kitchen" area. Try to imagine a college or fraternity dormitory (or roommate situation) where it's a "free-for-all" at meal time (30 to 50 people in a 20x30 room with four 3x8 ft tables), yet the military discipline (and the fact that everyone carries automatic weapons) encourage responsibility within the residents.

Bases (other than the JSS's) have recreation centers (with 30 minute internet limits per session, although there may be a long wait after signing in at certain times), PXs (Post Exchanges) where troops have access to purchase items from a decent inventory, laundry (free, but a two day minimum wait), and hot showers (although Marine bases insist upon "Navy showers", where you only run the hot water to get wet, and to rinse off the soap.) I've been at Army bases where this discipline was enforced via small hot water heaters! If you wanted hot water, you had to conserve during the process.

Regardless of whether you are hungry, dirty, or have to go to the restroom, a walk is required to accomplish this task. Walking is just fine if the weather is nice, but imagine walking 20 minutes to the Mess Hall for lunch if it's raining or it's 120 degrees Fahrenheit!!

Folks, we have it incredibly easy here in the States, as compared to the brave men and women that volunteered to serve in our Armed Forces, and many of our troops have done so repeatedly within the last four to six years.

"Other" non-military (IE: journalist/media) issues: Due to the "transient" nature of the environment (both within transitional housing, and on any base), I would not recommend that anyone leave any important (valuable) gear unattended at any time. During the 8 days or so that I've spent at the main base in Kuwait awaiting transportation into/out of Iraq, there is a formal operation in place to assign sleeping quarters. This operation is very efficient and well run.

However, due to the transitional nature of the travelers (usually contract employees of varying nationalities and backgrounds, including U.S. citizens) and the lack of security within individual tents, leaving gear unattended is asking for trouble. Recognizing this issue during both embed assignments, John and I took turns watching each other's gear if one or the other of us had to leave our tent for any reason. This worked fine unless we both had to leave the tent at the same time! If this unusual challenge presented itself, we would carry all our gear to the PAO office, and ask a trusted PAO (Public Affairs Officer) to monitor our gear until we returned. (Thank you Arcent PAO team for all your help!!)

Another alternative was to carry all of your equipment with you at all times. This works well, until you come to the DFACS (Mess Hall), where NO outside bags are allowed into the venue. In other words, I've encountered some inspiring, conscientious individuals, and others that I felt might steal everything I had if given the opportunity.

If anyone has any questions about living conditions (and I could go on for another hour or so to describe all the possible scenarios - especially in Iraq and some of the COPs and JSSs), please email or comment and I will get back to you as soon as possible.

"Politics, Anbar Style" - Sheiks' Meeting

John and I had the opportunity to attend a meeting between some of the local sheiks (tribal leaders who are respected mediators within their locale) and local USMC officers to review some issues within their areas of concern. These meetings are key to the social and local political relationships within Arab life, and must be cultivated over time. In order to both maintain and cultivate these relationships, it is necessary that quality social time is spent with these leaders, while listening and addressing their concerns and those of their tribe. These meetings require proper local social skills, and the hospitality of the hosts (and correct and gracious responses by the guests) is closely scrutinized. (FYI - Never show the sole of your foot to an Arab, and always accept/eat/return food and drink with your right hand. The sole of the foot and the left hand are considered unclean.)

Tribal relationships are a key factor within most of the social, geographical, and (therefore) political aspects of most of the communities within Iraq. These tribes are extremely close knit (and have long collective memories - a reason for some of the inter/intra-tribal revenge-violence that has occurred), but some "blurring" occurs between tribal boundaries due to inter-marriages that may occur to help foster relationships between neighboring tribes. Sheiks are men who command great respect within their tribal (neighborhood) communities (but have often been the target of repeated assassination attempts because of their relationship with US forces), so I have obscured their identities for their security.

Arab society is built upon hospitality (much like the Southern U.S. where I have spent most of my life.) You are warmly welcomed upon your arrival, enthusiastically greeted, and quickly seated. The sheik host sits at the "head" of the room, and the guests' social standing (within the context of the meeting and other guests) is determined by your proximity to the Sheik. It is considered good manners to remove your footwear when you enter an Arab abode (although we did not do so, because the Iraqis understand that the US military does not follow this custom for a variety of reasons - security being an important factor.) Guests are quickly seated upon floor cushions, with other cushions to recline upon. We were careful to either place our feet upon the floor, or sit cross-legged to avoid displaying the soles of our feet to our guests.

Once seated, we were formally welcomed by the sheik and his brother, and introductions were made. After a few minutes of polite conversation, young men brought small crystal "shot" glasses of chai (hot tea) with a triple helping of sugar undissolved in the bottom of the glass. These cups of chai were served upon a china tea saucer with a small silver spoon with which to stir the chai and sugar. Several rounds of chai were served before a pitcher of espresso and one china cup were brought out. A shot of espresso was poured for each guest, starting farthest away from the Sheik. The guests would quickly drink the espresso, before the empty cup was refilled and passed to the next guest. This rotation of hot chai and espresso continued throughout the discussions for the next two hours (often interspersed with ice cold bottled water, poured into individual glasses set before each of us.)

Finally, once the "business" discussions were concluded, a vinyl floor covering was spread over the beautiful carpet and two huge platters of food were brought in and set upon the floor. Everyone scooted up, off the floor cushions, and (with their right hands) began scooping up the delicious rice, vegetables, roasted lamb and chicken, depositing each handful as carefully as possible in our mouths. Finesse was required, as we had no plates or napkins, and certainly did not want to spill food on our host's beautiful carpet. The food was absolutely delicious, and we all ate until we were stuffed. Once we were through, the guests seated further away from the Sheik moved up to take our places.

After everyone had eaten, we began our farewells, exchanging business cards, and taking a few photographs to be shared later. John and I felt very welcome, and I have since received several emails from the Sheik encouraging me to return again soon.

Iraq's Christians In Peril - Interview with Canon Andrew White

If you are a Christian, and your son or daughter was killed because of your faith, what would you do? If your Muslim neighbor came to you and said, "Your daughters must convert to Islam and marry our sons, or we will kill your entire family," how would you respond? "Convert or die" is the message of choice for Islamic jihadists in Baghdad and Iraq who are working overtime to rid Iraq of "infidel" Christians.

I must strongly caution anyone that the following story and contents are extremely graphic, and may be disturbing to anyone reading or sharing them.

On 1 March in Baghdad, I met a man who refuses to give up hope for the future of Iraq's Christians. This is in spite of repeated threats to his life; the kidnappings, extortion, torture, and murder of hundreds of his congregation; and the abductions and subsequent mutilations and murders of his friends who are the few remaining religious leaders in Iraq. On top of all these challenges, the church he pastors has little money to continue to feed and provide medical care and medicine to the 1500+ members of the church he pastors for the most despised, yet often poorest of Baghdad's citizens - Baghdad's Iraqi Christians.

His name is Andrew White, and his official Anglican Church title is Canon White, but almost everyone he knows just calls him "Baba" ("Father" in Arabic.) He is a thoughtful, intelligent man who is a gentle giant, yet is terribly afflicted with the awful disease of multiple sclerosis.

Prior to my first military embed assignment in Iraq in January 2007, I was unaware that Christians even existed in Iraq. However, during that embed, I met a young Iraqi Christian woman, who had served as an interpreter for the U.S. for over three years, despite death threats to both she and her family. After she explained that there were over one million native Iraqi Christians, and that most were in great danger because of their faith, I was horrified and had to know more. After our meeting, I spent three months researching the story of the ongoing religious genocide of Iraqi's native Christians. Wait, did he say Iraq's native Christians? Yes, Iraq's Christian population pre-dated the Muslims in Iraq by almost seven hundred years!

Most of Iraq's native Christians call Nineveh (or the Nineveh Plains) their ancestral homeland. Those of you who have read the Old Testament will recall the story of Jonah and the whale in the Book of Jonah. Jonah was a reluctant prophet, who finally went to Nineveh where his testimony inspired the entire city of Nineveh to convert and repent. After Christ was crucified and was resurrected, Thomas the Apostle traveled to Nineveh, and his preaching facilitated many of the Ninehvites to convert to Christianity.

The Christian majority in Iraq gradually became a minority by the immigration of Muslims from the Ottoman Empire into Mesopotamia after 682 A.D. (Does this scenario sound somewhat vaguely familiar to my fellow Americans and our European allies?) The Christians and the Muslims had many differences, and much blood was spilled during the 1300+ years between then and now. The two religious groups generally settled into a tenuous co-existence throughout history, even through Saddam's reign. In fact, Saddam's right hand man, Tariq Aziz, was a Christian (and an "enforced" acquaintance of Canon White's during the First Gulf War.) I have learned that many of Saddam's household staff and servants were Christians because he felt that he could trust them not to assassinate him!

After Saddam was deposed during the U.S. invasion in 2003, some Islamic jihadists took the opportunity to begin a program of discrimination, extortion (jizyah), and coercion to rid their country of the (infidel) Christians. This program eventually changed into more violent tactics such as kidnappings, torture, and murder. My friend's brother was kidnapped, and a ransom was paid, but he was shot in the leg before he was returned to his family. Unfortunately, this is one of the success stories.

Truth be known, much of Iraq's Christian population has either been forced into exile or has been murdered as a message to the remaining Christians. Of the estimated 1.4 million Iraqi Christians in Iraq in 2003, only an estimated 300,000 to 500,000 remain there. Many families are simply told, "Convert or die! Your daughters must convert to Islam and marry our sons or we will kill your entire family." There are eyewitness accounts of the kidnappings of priests who were subsequently decapitated, and had their bodies deposited at the door of their church with their heads placed upon their chests. Those young Christian men unwilling to convert or carry out suicide attacks are kidnapped and murdered. I heard accounts of both the crucifixion of a teenage boy, and of a boy who was roasted atop a pile of rice as a message to his parents and fellow Christians. Canon White related how he officiates many funerals of the murdered, but seldom gets the bodies back to bury them after they are kidnapped.

I know these stories are both shocking and horrifying. However, there are both recorded interviews and/or photographs to substantiate what I am telling you. As fellow Christians here in the U.S. and abroad, we must do something to help our fellow brothers and sisters in Christ who live in Iraqi, or are refugees before they are all driven out or killed.

In spite of their sufferings, there is hope. The U.S. Congress passed legislature in December of 2007 which acknowledged the plight of Iraq's Christians, and allotted $10 million to conduct a study to see what could be done to resolve the issue (too little and too late, but a good start.) My friend, Michael Youash, of www.democracyforiraq.com co-sponsored this bill, and I encourage everyone to view their website for updates. Canon White encouraged us to research this issue, but also to take action by writing our Congress and Senators, spreading the word to fellow Christians, and most importantly, to donate money for the direct support of these fellow Christians in Iraq, Syria, Jordan, and internally displaced persons within Iraq to those organizations listed below that will make sure the aid is distributed properly.

Please contact your fellow Christians within your congregation and have them write their Representatives and Senators within Congress, and pray for our fellow Christians in Iraq and elsewhere. You can find additional information by visiting www.rfcnet.org, www. csi-usa.org, and www.iraqdemocracyproject.org or by doing a Google search for Iraqi Christians, or by contacting me via a comment or email.

John and I are back - Rested and Ready to Spread the News

I apologize to everyone for the delay in posting. John and I arrived back in Atlanta late on 13 Mar, but each of us still had a little traveling to do before we were safely home.

John had to make a connecting Delta flight back to the East Coast, and I had to drive about 2 hours north before I finally arrived home.

I just now spoke with John for the first time since we said farewell in Atlanta on 13 March. We had similar stories about the next few days, too. John had been awarded an achievement award for Athletic Director of the Year, and had to travel once again to Atlantic City to accept his award in person (after 24+ flight hours on 12-13 March.) We both were very thankful to God that we returned safely, and that our families had remained safe and healthy during our odyssey, and most especially that God allowed us to complete our goal of visiting the site in Ar Ramadi where so many brave men lost their lives on 6 April 2004.

The next logical question for John and I (and everyone reading this blog) is, "What's next?"
That is a very good question that I, too, have pondered for the last few days. I have enough troop and Iraqi citizen interviews, images, anecdotes, Chuck Norrisism's (troops kudos to Chuck's super human powers), and details from four other stories that I am working on to keep both myself and our readers busy for as long as we can keep you interested (months, I hope!)

My sincere desire is that you share these blog posts with your family, friends, neighbors, both state and U.S. Representatives and Senators. Everything I have posted here is the absolute truth, is documented down to date-time-name/rank-unit, and most importantly, is NOT being reported by the mainstream media.

Neither John nor I are political. We are simply American citizens, who believe in the U.S. Constitution, the Bill of Rights, and the tenants of our Founding Fathers. America should be the "Land of Opportunity" and yet, our citizens are not often reminded that "Freedom is not free!" None of us would enjoy the civil liberties we have today if our forefathers had not opposed and thrown off England's yoke of oppression. My personal opinion also champions the God-given right espoused within the 2nd Amendment. Here's a quote you won't see in many papers. "No freeman shall ever be debarred the use of arms (within his own lands or tenements.)" Thomas Jefferson, Draft Virginia Constitution, The Papers of Thomas Jefferson 1:353 (J. Boyd ed. 1950.)

The troops I interviewed during our three week sojourn ranged from every age group, ethnicity, religion, and repetition of embed assignments that you can possibly imagine. With all those variables being considered, I discovered one universal voice in these troops.

"If we pull out now, it'll be a blood bath." "The only reason that security is as good as it is now is that these people (Iraqis) know we've got their backs. If we leave now, then not only would the blood of our fellow Marines be in vain, but our new allies would be massacred. If that happens, then our (U.S.) sons and daughters will be here in ten to fifteen years to try to fix an avoidable mistake." "Pull out now? Are you f------ kidding me? Things are almost back to normal. No attacks against U.S. forces in Ramadi have been made in the last 265 days. Why leave now? If we did, the bad guys [AQI, Iranians, Syrians, former Baathist's] would come back here and kill every Iraqi that worked with us to improve their situation. It would be pointless to pull out now. Besides, what would I say to the families of my fellow Marines that died for these people?"

These thoughts and sentiments are almost identical to those I heard during interviews in January of 2007. The difference is that now the troops are much more emphatic. Many of them have not fired a shot in anger in months, but they all recognize that situation is a "good thing" that has come about because of their security presence here in Ramadi and Fallujah. The Iraqis are taking over security in many areas, but they appreciate and need our expertise, technology, and air power to enable them to do their jobs to the best of their ability, and with the minimum loss of life.

Reconstruction in Ar Ramadi Images

Ramadi Reconstruction - Full Ahead

Reconstruction is in progress everywhere you look in this formerly war-torn city, which used to be called "The Most Dangerous City in the World." Local Iraqis are working hard throughout their city to clean up debris, construct fences, rebuild medians with colorful pavers, construct flower boxes and traffic circles, and install street lights.

From what I understand, there is enough work available that anyone who wants work, can get work. In the case of unskilled laborers, it may be physical labor like construction, debris removal, fence building, street sweeper, etc., but everyone that is willing to work has a job. The pay for an unskilled laborer begins at $8.00 per day, but that is better than risking one's life for a one-time payment of $50.00 to plant an IED for Al Qaeda or other insurgents.

Route Michigan, the main highway through the city, was just re-opened two weeks ago for end-to-end travel for the first time in over three years. Traffic, pedestrians, and commerce have capitalized on that re-opening, and the city is returning to normalcy. Iraqi Police units man the numerous checkpoints, alongside US Marine advisors, to insure that the citizens remain safe.

Many of the former Combat Outposts, SP's (Strong Points) and other U.S. military posts have been turned over to either the Iraqi Army or the Iraqi Police. The U.S. military's goal is to turn over all these strategic positions and forts to the Iraqis, and a great deal of progress has been made on that front.

John and I spent one night and two days with Marines of the 2/8 Weapons Company, who occupy a JSS (Joint Security Station) alongside IP (Iraqi Police) forces. They eat, sleep, train, patrol, and stand watch side by side with Iraqi's who want nothing more than to restore peace, normalcy, and opportunity to their country. After spending a couple of days with these Iraqis, I can honestly say that they are extremely dedicated to their jobs, and demonstrate initiative that surprises even their US Marine Corp advisors. Captain Martin explained that the Iraqis had recently taken it upon themselves to drive their vehicles to a central maintenance point for scheduled maintenance, rather than convoy with U.S. military forces. The IP told Martin that it was better for everyone that way, without any lag time in vehicle upkeep.

The Iraqi Police are very serious about cadre' discipline, as we discovered our first night at the JSS. We were escorted to the detention cells where suspects are held until an Iraqi Judge can arraign them, and saw an Iraqi Police Officer in one of the cells. Our escort asked him why he was in jail, and he explained that he had come to work without shaving! Now, for those of you without a military background, this may sound a little extreme. I can say from personal experience that the US Marine Corps will tolerate some things, but an unshaved face or a dirty weapon are not on that list! Obviously, the Iraqi Police had adopted this Marine credo, too.

Children of Ramadi

These children are incredible. Very shy at first, they quickly warm to our presence, and before long are asking to have their pictures taken. They are very smart, and even though they have suffered a great deal during the war, still have most of their childlike innocence intact. Cries of "Meestah! Meestah!" ring loudly as we walk down the street during our four hour foot patrol through the very neighborhood where J.T. and the other eleven men lost their lives on 6 April 2004.

Along with Capt. Martin and USMC 2/8 Weapons Company, we visited a local school that the Marines are supporting. Captain Martin, John and I visited several classrooms, in which we asked the boys to recite their ABC's or count to twenty. Many were successful, and were rewarded with a pen or pencil. Unbelievably, pens or pencils were the items that children wanted most (other than chocolate'.) From what I understand, the children need school supplies desperately. The U.S. government is buying them new desks (and supplying the old desks to new schools being built,) but they still need the most basic supplies, especially pencils.

Although the security situation has changed greatly, we are still very aware that this is not your average neighborhood stroll. Many of the men smile as I pass, yet other older men hang back in the shadows of their shops and glower as we make our way down their street. New construction (or rebuilding) is visible almost everywhere you look, but almost every building still bears the scars of the fighting that was a constant fixture until October of 2007.

In spite of being raised in this dangerous place, the children were quick to smile, and attempted numerous times to engage us in conversation. My Arabic is limited to a few phrases, but the universal language of humanity enabled us to communicate in very basic ways - a smile, a gesture, an outstretched hand offered as an invitation for a handshake, a thumbs up, and even the "pound it" gesture of fist to fist were a constant.

Of course, many of the children offered to trade me watches, candy, or other trinkets for my sunglasses, camera, and cell phone. (I somehow refused these "generous" offers!) The girls were the hardest to photograph, as they were generally sequestered from the boys, often within high walled courtyards, attended closely by their mothers or other women. However, as you can see from the photographs, all the children were quite precious, and we enjoyed our time with them.